When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.
The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.
“I’m totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.
It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.
Elena Voss is a tech enthusiast and writer with over a decade of experience in software development and digital media.